I'm a Slovak UK-based PhD student in Anthropology at the LSE. This blog is essentially my work-in-progress in an anthropology of political change in Serbia the fieldwork for which I began in September 2010. It previously covered my summer 2009 participatory-conservation internship with C-3 in the Comoros.
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Feb
Wed
16th
FIELD NOTES FRAGMENT: PERFORMING STATEHOODS IN ORAŠACOn the Christian feast of Sretenje (The Presentation of Jesus at the Temple) in 1804, the First Serbian Uprising against the declining Ottoman domination began in Orašac, a village some 70 kilometres south of Belgrade in the Central Serbian region of Šumadija. The uprising was but the beginning of the wars of independence known as the Serbian Revolution (1804–1817) which prepared the ground for the formation of a modern Serbian state. Indeed, on Sretenje of 1835 the Constitution of the then Principality of Serbia was adopted. In Serbia today, Sretenje – falling on 15 February in the modern Gregorian calendar – is not only a Church holiday. According to a 2001 law, it is also a key državni praznik (‘state holiday’, as opposed to ‘religious holidays’) called Dan državnosti Srbije (Serbia’s Statehood Day). Interestingly, a 2006 presidential decree declared this date also the Serbian Army Day. This completes the symbolic association of Serbian statehood with the military, the critical actor in the consolidation and expansion of the Serbian state in the 19th century, as well as with Christianity, more specifically with its brand practiced by the autocephalous national church – the Serbian Orthodox Church. While the latter link was actively repressed in the socialist Yugoslavia and not officially endorsed by the Milošević regime which did not mark a clean break with socialist symbolism, it became much more prominent after 2000 with the final death of the idea of Yugoslavism and the quest of the Serbian state for a new identity. That the chain of associations revealed by the multiplication of holidays celebrated on 15 February is fully intentional rather than random was this year confirmed, among others, by the Serbian president Boris Tadić who was quoted as saying that ‘the proclamation of 15 February the Statehood Day and the Serbian Army Day renews the deepest historical and traditional link in the [process of] founding and building of our state and its army’.
The triple link was also manifested in celebrations which took place in Orašac, at the site commemorating the First Serbian Uprising. In the morning, the high Church dignitary vladika šumadijski Jovan served a mass in the nearby Church. Flags of Kraljevina Srbija (The Kingdom of Serbia), an association sponsored by the heir to the throne Aleksandar II Karađorđević which, predictably, advocates the return to parliamentary monarchy, could be seen at the churchyard. Following the mass, a mixed procession of Church and lay dignitaries transferred to the commemorative site, which forms a sort of stage at the bottom of a natural amphitheater. Taking the asphalt path and stairs leading from the church to the commemorative site, they passed between two lines of men facing each other who had taken the positions during the service. The majority of men were wearing uniforms, mostly reminiscent of the black or less commonly green uniforms of četnici, the monarchist paramilitaries fighting in the WWII second against the Germans as well as the communist Partisans. The men were holding easily recognizable četnik flags, with white skull and bones on black background and reading ‘For king and fatherland; freedom or death’, as well as the flags of the contemporary četnik Ravna Gora Movement whose name refers to the region in which the original četnik militias formed. Many other men in the crowd could be seen wearing full or partial uniforms; apart from the četnik ones, a few older men sported traditional peasant-style uniforms.
After the procession reached the site surrounded by a crowd of onlookers, a special commemorative service (pomen) for Đorđe Petrović Karađorđe, the leader of the First Uprising and the founder of the royal house of Karađorđević of which Aleksandar II is a descendant, was served. The attendees of note then laid laurel wreaths at the monument. These included the crown prince, the representatives of the Aranđelovac municipality of which Orašac is a part, the delegation of the Serbian Army and government officials. Significantly, the latter were represented by the Minister of Religion Bogoljub Šijaković and the delegation of the Ministry of Defense, i.e. officials to do with religion and the military. Speeches of the president of the municipality and the heir ensued, followed by a short rodoljubiva poezija (patriotic poetry) award ceremony and some poem-reading. The event concluded by performances of a local folk music group and of a female performer who sang, in an angelic voice, the revolutionary anthem of the First Serbian Uprising Vostani Serbie (Arise, Serbia).
Understanding this event would be impossible without taking into account the vehement behaviour of the crowd. First of all, I have already mentioned that many men wearing uniforms or parts of uniforms were in attendance. The banners of the original četnik movements and its contemporary epigones completed the strong military symbolism of the event. (It is important to point out, however, that the state organized another, much bigger celebration of the Statehood Day and the Serbian Army Day which was essentially a military parade combined with state medal awards. The fact that it took place in Belgrade and on Sunday, although this was two days before the actual holiday date, suggests this was intended to be the main official festivity for the public.) Other banners disclosed the presence of some of the most important far-right nationalist movements or NGOs. While the group of Obraz supporters, holding one long banner, stood on one side of the passage leading to the commemorative site (through which the procession passed on its way from the church), was relatively small and peaceful, the other side of the passage was occupied by a much larger and rowdier crowd of SNP Naši 1389 standing next to the people holding četnik and Kraljevina Srbija flags. In this part of the crowd, the 19th century flag of Imperial Russia could be seen, as well as current flags of Serbia and two banners of SNP Naši 1389 opposing Serbia’s accession to the European Union.
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